Tirana has no shortage of cafes and bars. But finding a cozy one that you can while away a few hours in on a rainy afternoon or chilly evening is a bit harder. Luckily, I’ve done the research for you. It was tough, but somebody had to do it.

Vena Vinoteka

This place is a total gem. Tucked away in one of the side streets of Blokku, it would be easy to miss, but a special trip here is absolutely worth it. They have more than 900 wines to choose from, and will let you sample a variety before you decide what to order. We came one rainy evening and sat inside, enjoying spaghetti with capers and lemon and Albanian white wine. The server brought us a glass of bubbles and some snacks while we perused the menu, then three bottles to the table for us to try – one from Tirana, one from Berat and one from Durres – all with very different tasting notes. While we were eating, a guy was shaving thin slices of speck and handing them around for people to try. It felt cozy and intimate and like being among friends. There’s a side room and a downstairs dining room for more privacy, or for parties and couples. In summer, there’s outdoor seating on both sides of the street.

Rruga Komuna e Parisit, Tirana

Bufe

This Italian/Mediterranean-inspired wine bar lies on a quiet street just off the main road by the river. The front garden section is great in summer, but in colder months, the indoor bar is the perfect place to park yourself for the evening and enjoy some Italian wines, homemade food and good music.

Rruga Reshit Çollaku, Tirana

Radio

Radio is one of my favourite bars in the world, not just Tirana. They usually play 80s/90s classics, the decor is a wonderful mish-mash of antiques, books, stereos and, of course, radios. Most weekends there’s a live DJ, the cocktails are on point, and the service is relaxed, warm and friendly. In winter, there are woodburners on the go in the back room (the smoking section). They serve food. Cash only.

Rruga Ismail Qemali, drink.radiobar.al

Komiteti Café-Museum

The Komiteti brand is strong in Albania. There are three outposts in Tirana, one in Vlore, and another new one in Gjirokaster. I’ve now visited them all! Founded by Arbër Çepani, Komiteti draws on old-world charm and traditional decor, like being in your grandmother’s house or a shop of curiosities. The central Tirana cafe is filled with 17,000 vintage pieces, books, radios, crocheted doilies, and all manner of communist-era paraphernalia that make you feel very much in historic Albania. It has lots of sections and small rooms to tuck yourself away in – perfect for cozying up with your friends, day or night. They also serve homemade cakes and an extensive range of raki, including flavours such chilli, plum, blackberry and cinnamon. Takes cards.

Rruga Papa Gjon Pali II

Botanica

Another one of my all-time favourites in Tirana. Botanica is part restaurant, part wine bar and part casual cafe, depending on the time of the day you come. I could happily sit here all day, from breakfast to late night! The music is relaxing, the staff are lovely, and the food and drinks are excellent value for money, plus they have vegan options. They have an outside section overlooking Skandeburg Square, which is idea for sundowners. But I actually prefer it inside as it’s non-smoking, has a retro decor with plants everywhere, and I can bring a book, laptop or friend to chat to and stay for hours. Takes cards – minimum payment 1,000 LEK.

Sheshi Skënderbej